Naomoto All-Steam Iron W/2 Hoses #HSP-440

The all steam irons can not be hooked up to a water bottle. All steam irons need a boiler to generate as well as dedicated steam supply and return lines.

These irons are used in an industrial setting. There is generally a large boiler in the plant, which then powers other equipment including large garment presses which is where this all steam iron would be set up. The iron connects to the steam line to power it, and to a return line which will feed into steam traps, check valves, a return tank and a pump.

The exhaust valve (outlet) on most all steam irons is the one with the dial/knob attached to it.

The all steam irons will give 80 psi of steam and is very good at touching up shirts. Steam electric irons also have a heating element and thermostat so you will get a powerful steam at an even higher temperature.

Most all-steam irons will come with a nickel coated base plate or a non-stick sole. The nickel coated base plates tend to be easier to clean with standard iron cleaners. The non-stick sole plates are not as easy to clean because you don’t want to scratch the coating off the non-stick. The nice thing about the non-stick coating is that it tends to glide across the garments a little better. Because it glides, you do not need an iron shoe. Iron shoes tend to bring down the temperature of the iron base.

All steam irons are most likely stationed next to a press which already had a bucket trap in line. If you are finding that the bucket trap for the unit is not sufficient and water is coming out of the iron, we recommend the 1/4" disc trap (STE-5). They can be attached directly to the exhaust valve of the iron or to the end of the hose going into the return line.

The gaskets will go bad eventually. However, there is a simple adjustment that can be made to prolong the life. Tightening the spindle nut underneath the black knob will eliminate the space in the gaskets, creating less room for the steam to escape from.

If a you have an all- steam iron set up, whether they have a Cissell, Naomoto, Kyoto, Ace-Hi, Sapporo, you can always replace it with any other all steam iron. For example, if you have a Cissell All steam iron- and you are thinking of switching to a Kyoto iron- you CAN do that. The only things that you may want to consider- is upon installation, if they are using an iron shoe, you would need a different iron shoe. The only other possible confusion may lie with the fittings or adapters. Most of the irons we carry come with hoses that will hook up directly to the iron (no problem there), however, because all dry cleaners may be using different sized pipe threads to hook the irons up, they may need to purchase the correct adapters to use in their system. Any hardware store will have what they are looking for (or if they know what size they need i.e. 1/4", 1/8", 3/8"-we may carry the correct adapter as well).

For best results, the iron should be kept at 70-80 psi.

There is an Allen wrench screw under the handle securing it in place. It will need to be tightened using an Allen wrench.

Yes, if you are experiencing water problems and have decided to check your steam trap, you should also check the check valve that is located after it. If the check valve is not working it could cause the steam trap to malfunction as well as the iron or piece of equipment it is draining.

An iron shoe diffuser can be used in conjunction with the iron shoe to diffuse the steam better. Or the operator may want to try turning the nut at the base of thumb lever to the right- so that less steam is allowed to come out of the iron.

After turning on the boiler in the morning, you will want to open the exhaust valve of the iron fully. Wait until the iron gets warm enough for the new steam to push the excess water out of the exhaust valve. Push down on the push lever, away from any garments to get rid of any additional water.

One thing we may have forgotten to mention is that the exhaust knob should be open. It’s an obvious thing to overlook, but nonetheless, it should be inspected to ensure that it is open and there is no blockage in the valve as well. If this particular station has always been a problem, it’s possible that the station is located too far from the boiler and thus the iron is not getting the quality of steam that it should be.

You will tend to see water with possibly a lot of steam, as the steam that is coming out of this hose is a wet steam, thus more visible to the human eye. Continue to adjust the exhaust valve a bit, while pressing down on the thumb switch of the iron. If a dry steam can be obtained from the iron, with out any water coming out of it, you can rule out the return line as being the culprit for the water issues.

Try tightening the hose nipple down. If that doesn’t solve the problem, inspect the copper washer near the base of the nipple fitting. If the copper washer is in bad shape, replace. If the copper washer is not available, remove and wrap the threaded portions of the hose nipple with Teflon tape.

We recommend using EZ-Off™ (EZ1) or Hot Melt™ (MEL1) or Cool Off™(CO10).

If the white line on the valve is pointing directly up or directly down, then the valve is fully open. At a ¼” turn or if the white line on the knob is at a 45 degree angle, then the valve is partially open. If the white line on the vale is at a 90-degree angle, then the valve is closed.

All-steam irons do not have any electricity connected to them. They are run solely be steam. If there is a problem with the iron conducting static electricity it is most likely due to the fact that there is something inside the plant which is not grounded properly. The electricity is trying to reach the ground and is going through the iron, through the presser, and to the ground. Ways to fix this problem would be to use an iron rest when the iron is not in use, and to use a rubber mat under the presser’s feet. In the mean time the plant should be checked to make sure that all items inside the plant are grounded properly.

We only carry the 7ft. hoses, even though larger lengths may be offered elsewhere. Originally the manufacturers of the all-steam iron had a hose that was 7 ¼’ because their iron is supposed to be as close as possible to its steam source. As the hoses get further away from the supply line, there is a greater chance for water problems in the iron.

There are a few reasons why this might happen. The following are some trouble shooting suggestions: 1) Check to make sure that the small nut at the top of the rocker (or base of thumb lever) isn’t too tight. Loosen this nut slightly while the iron is hot- pushing the thumb lever periodically till the steam flow is sufficient. 2) Make sure that the steam supply and steam return hoses have not been reversed. 3) Make sure there is no water coming through the steam supply line. This line should only have steam – If water is in the line- it will leak though the bottom of the iron. 4) Make sure the return line is working properly. Keep steam supply hose connected, but disconnect steam return hose. Let the return hose fall into pail to collect any water. Press down on thumb switch. A) If iron is giving off a dry steam- then the problem lies in the return line. Check the steam traps and check valve. B)If iron isn’t giving off any steam- check the steam inlet fitting of iron for dirt. If inlet is clogged, steam cannot pass though. The inlet must be cleaned 5) There may be a steam trap problem. Is a thermodynamic trap being used? The thermodynamic trap allows condensate and steam to continually flow. A good thermodynamic trap virtually eliminates any water problems. These traps however should be used with a strainer as they have a tendency to clog. 6) Make sure that the exhaust valve is open- and will allow any water to leave back into the return line. 7) When operating the iron, follow these instructions: A) Turn on the steam source B) With iron cold, open the return/ exhaust valve (on back of iron) completely C)When the iron is hot, close the return valve completely and reopen it about 1/8th of a turn. A vacuum is then created which draws moisture into the return line.

There is a bad gasket in the condensate return valve. The part will need to be replaced.

There may be debris or dirt lodged in the steam valve. The part may need to be cleaned or replaced. There may be a bad gasket in the steam valve area; the part will need to be replaced.

First make sure that the steam supply was turned on. If the steam supply was turned on and the iron is still not getting hot, the steam trap may not be functioning properly. Try tapping on the trap to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have caused the trap to stay shut

Remove the steam supply hose from the iron. Check the steam supply fitting on the iron and make sure it is free of any debris, dirt, or scale build-up. If the fitting is clogged it will not allow steam into the iron.

At the base of the thumb switch is a nut and a metal adjustment screw. Remove the nut, and adjust the metal adjustment screw. Turning the adjustment screw to the right will decrease the steam flow. Turning the adjustment screw to the left will increase the steam flow. After the steam flow is sufficient, replace the plastic nut.

These irons have round holes on the bottom. The "slit" design was discontinued many years ago.